PREFACE
Does the world really need another book about pizza? This topic has been covered in a number of cookbooks. The history of the origin of pizza, though not always the same history, has also been well documented. There is no shortage of recipes, advice and opinions available on numerous websites and blog pages. So, the question remains: Does the world really need another book about pizza?
Tore Gjesteland and Craig Whitson have known each other for years. Together with chef Trond Moi, they competed in the unofficial world championship for pizza in Las Vegas in 1997. The trio won 1st place for their dessert pizza; a take on a Southern favorite; pecan pie. The following year, they released the book, ”Jazz Pizza”, which featured recipes specifically designed for the competition as well as other popular favorites.
In the fall of 2011, Craig and Tore attended a summer party at the home of a mutual friend. The host prepared an array of pizzas baked in his wood-fired oven, which led to the conversation turning quickly to pizza. It so happened that Craig had begun working on a book about pizza while Tore was in the early stages of a book project on the same subject. The two agreed to combine talent and effort, and created this book together with another mutual friend, Kenneth Hansen.
After much talk about recipes and "what is right and wrong with the world of pizza", the three mutually decided upon the following idea: "what are the untold stories about pizza?" The authors decided that there needs to be a book telling the behind-the-scenes story of the pizza business. The book would show pizza lovers just how much work is involved in putting together their favorite dish.
Fast forward to the spring of 2012. Monthly meetings provided opportunities to delve further into the world of pizza. Swedish photographer Mats Widén, a long time collaborator with Kenneth, was brought onboard and trips to Italy and the USA were planned. Great pizza and pizza connoisseurs can of course be found in Europe, Australia and Japan, but there was no question for the culinary foursome that their book would focus on the two most important countries for pizza: America and Italy.
Nobody really knows the true origin of pizza. It would have been great if this book could have introduced the world to the one guy who started it all. Even better if we had found that first crude drawing of him, animal-skin clad, club in one hand, the other proudly displaying the very first pizza. Truth be known, there is not one original pizza upon which all others are based. It is a short leap from harvesting grain and using fire to making something bread-like, to baking bread and topping it or filling it with something tasty; that is the true definition of pizza.
OUR INTRODUCTION TO PIZZA
ITALY: through thick & thin
Our physical journey through the world of pizza started in America. This was more for practical reasons than anything else. But pizza is Italian. Even the most jaded non-Italian pizza maker will surely admit that without Italy there would be no pizza. So, even though our geographic pizza journey began in New York, it is accurate to say that our spiritual pizza journey began in Italy.
All four of us have spent time in Italy
quite a lot to be honest. Tore and Craig have explored various pizza tours throughout the country, and Mats and Kenneth have spent longer periods working on cookbooks in Italy. What none of us realized, however, was just how much we did not know about pizza.
Being able to recite the story of Queen Margherita visiting Naples in 1889, and being served the famous red, white and green pizza by Raffaele Esposito, does not make a pizza aficionado. Most likely, this famous pizza featuring tomato, mozzarella and basil, was first created several years before the queen´s visit, and some experts believe that this historical event was, in fact, quite different from the modern version of the story.
But there is no doubt about Italy´s key role in the pizza universe. Naples is the capital of this universe, but exciting pizzas are found throughout Italy. Italians are extremely proud of their traditions, and when it comes to food and wine, they are staunchly patriotic. There is a strong focus on local ingredients, local history and local traditions. A resident of Naples will most likely proclaim that the only true pizza anywhere is the Pizza Napoletana. In Rome they often scoff at this idea; those Neapolitans with their soft, puffy pizza. No thanks!
Pizza in Italy today has been escalated to an entirely different position than in earlier times. What used to be "food for the people" has entered the world of sophisticated and professional gastronomy, and the humble pizzaiolo has become a superstar. There are lots of "new" pizzas in Italy, and there is an entire movement in the north, with the arrival of the much-discussed Pizza Italiana. This has made many of the Neapolitan pizzaioli even more protective of their pizza´s history, and for those of us who love pizza, the Italian world of pizza has never been more exciting.
Today we can taste the Italian pizza from generations past as well as some of the most innovative pizza to be found anywhere. Talk about a win-win situation for everyone!
